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There are two distinct forms of
plants in the genus,
Paeonia. The most common type are the
herbaceous peonies whose stems and foliage die back to the ground
after heavy frost in the fall. A less common type
are the tree peonies which are woody shrubs that keep
their stems through the winter.
Both types of peony are known for
their large, brightly colored flowers which, in some
cultivars, can be huge, almost to extreme. Until recent decades,
double flowering types were most common but the
single flowering peonies are becoming more popular
because they can hold themselves up without staking.
The double flower types need support and often
shatter in heavy rain and winds.
This page covers only herbaceous
peonies while tree peonies are discussed on their
own page.
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Peonies are pretty adaptable in
terms of their site conditions. Ideally, they should
be planted in a well drained soil and in full
sunlight. Like most ornamental plants, they prefer a
slightly acid soil in the
pH range of 6.0 to 7.0.
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Autumn is usually thought to be
the best time to plant peonies, however, they may
also be planted in the spring with good success.
The key factor is that the top of
the buds on the crown of the division must be
no deeper than 2 inches
from the top of the soil. A good approach
is to dig the hole and then put a board across the
opening. Fill in soil until you can place the
division on top of the mound and the buds are 2
inches from the bottom of the board. Then, refill
the hole with the original soil. If the peonies are
planted too deep, they will produce stems and leaves
but no flowers.
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Once the flowers begin to fall
apart,
deadhead the peonies. BTW - Ants are NOT
needed for peonies to bloom. They are often seen on
the buds but this is because they are attracted to
the sweet sap the oozes from the bud. Peonies will
flower with or without the presence of ants.
If you have the large, double
flowering types, you may need to stake the flower
stalks to keep them from bending down to the ground.
A peony ring or bamboo stakes may be useful.
The single flowering peonies may
not be as fragrant as the doubles but they do not
need staking.
In the fall, cut the dead,
blackened foliage down to the ground and dispose of
it away from the peony bed. This is especially
important if the plant shows signs of peony blight
discussed below.
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Botrytis blight is, perhaps, the
most common disease of peonies. This fungal disease
caused large black spots on the leaves later in the
season. Some
fungicides are labeled for this disease
but such things as removing the diseased leaves and
stems in the fall and avoiding irrigation directly
to the leaves should help to keep it under control.
Also, plants grown in the shade where it takes
longer for water on the leaves to evaporate are most
likely to infected than those in the full sun.
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There is no need for over winter protection of
peonies unless you are in zones to which they are
not adapted. Peonies are long lived plants and have
been know to stay in the same location for 70 or 80
years with a little rejuvenation division
periodically to keep them blooming.
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Division is the most common way
to propagate the many cultivars of peony. Be sure to
have 1 to 3 buds on each part of the crown when
making the division. Usually the best time to do
this is in the fall after the foliage has died back
so you can easily see the developing buds.
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