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Daffodils are spring flowering
bulbs in the
genus,
Narcissus. All daffodils are narcissus but not all narcissus are
daffodils. Other plants such as the jonquils and others are also in the
genus along with the daffodils.
Daffodils come in a surprising array of
sizes, flower types and colors. They are durable plants and, for many home
gardeners, are especially prized because they are deer resistant. Like many
of our common ornamental plants, they are poisonous.
They are also valued because, unlike many
tulips, they are very hardy and will actually "naturalize" and spread over
an area in subsequent years.
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As with other bulbs, the most
important site condition for daffodils is to have a
well drained soil. If the soil is high in
clay
content and holds onto too much water, there is
always the threat of rot for the bulbs. Also,
although they can tolerate some shade, daffodils do
best with a lot of sunlight.
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Daffodils need to be planted
during the fall of the year so that they have time
to go through the chilling temperatures of the
winter months. Generally speaking, they need about
13 weeks at temperatures below around 40 degrees in
order to trigger formation of flower buds and stems.
The bulbs may be planted at any
time before the ground freezes in the late fall or
early winter. As with most bulbs, they need to be
placed at a depth of about 2.5 to 3 times the bulb's
height. So, if you have a 2 inch tall bulb, you need
to dig a hole about 5 to 6 inches deep. You can go a
bit deeper in sandy soils and a bit shallower in
heavy clay soils.
Be sure to plant the flat i.e.
bottom, side of the bulb at the bottom of the hole.
If you plant the bulb upside down, it will probably
still grow but it will take extra energy to twist
the stem around and make it head up to the soil
surface. This can lead to a shorter life for the
bulb over the years.
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Fertilizing
- Spring flowering bulbs including daffodils need to
be fertilized before the new foliage emerges in the
spring. This allows time for the fertilizer to leach
down into the ground to the root zone of the bulbs.
The nutrients need to be available to the roots
during the time when the leaves are green and
growing. That, after all, is the only time the
plants can use
fertilizers.
Foliage
Removal - Remember that bulbs are just energy
storage organs for the plant's future success. Where
do they get this energy? From
photosynthesis that
takes place in the leaves. So, it seems only logical
that the longer you can keep the leaves going, the
greater the amount of energy that will be pushed
down into the bulbs for next year's plants and
flowers.
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Generally speaking, about the
only serious problem for daffodils is root rot and
this is rarely experienced except in soils with poor
drainage.
The really good news is, as we
discussed above, daffodils are not eaten by deer.
They are poisonous.
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In areas where daffodils are
considered winter hardy, they need no special winter
care. They will survive and thrive in the soil.
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As with other bulbs, daffodils
multiply by adding tiny bulblets to the sides of
existing bulbs. As these grow over succeeding
season, they may become crowded which will restrict
the growth of the new bulbs. At that time, it will
be helpful to dig up the clump of bulbs, separate
them and replant them at the proper depth and
spacing. Of course, do this in the fall if possible.
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