In terms of planting depth and ways of treating the various
nursery stock types, generally follow the guidelines
expressed in the
Planting Trees
section. Shrubs are smaller
plants and generally have a much less extensive root system.
Therefore, unlike trees, we can usually amend enough soil to
improve it for shrubs. Follow the general recommendations
listed in the Soil Preparation section.
A. Planting Bare Root Shrubs - Probably the most commonly grown bare
root shrubs are
roses although other deciduous plants may
also be sold in this manner. As with all bare root plants,
avoid buying ones that have begun to grow while they are
still in the box. Once they put out foliage at the store,
they begin to lose moisture. Since there is no soil around
the roots, they cannot replenish that water. Also, once you
bring them home, keep them in a cool location until you
plant them. Before you begin to dig the hole, take the plant
and set it into a 5 gallon pail of water to allow the roots
to refill themselves.
For bare root shrubs, take a rough measurement of the length
of the root system and dig a hole about that depth. Put a
mound of soil in the center of the hole, spread out the
roots and place them on top of the mound. Place a piece of
wood or other straight edge across the top of the hole and
keep adding soil to the mound until the stem of the plant is
at a height equivalent to where it was growing at its
previous site. When you reach the correct position, fill in
the rest of the hole and water it thoroughly as you go.
This procedure works for the vast
majority of shrubs. However,
hybrid tea roses have on
additional factor to consider. Hybrid teas are all
grafted
so that the top of the plant (scion) is that beautiful
flowering type of rose but the bottom (rootstock) is often a
wild type of rose. This is done because the natural roots of
hybrid tea roses are usually not hardy for northern
climates. So, they have to combine the flowering scion with
the hardy rooted rose.
Anyway, there will be a "knob" on the stem which is the
graft union where the two parts are joined together.
Generally speaking, most sources recommend that this knob
should end up just above the soil line. If the graft union
is in contact with the soil, it may sprout and grow roots
from the non-hardy part of the plant (scion) and defeat the
whole purpose of grafting. Unfortunately, this means that
the exposed union must be covered and protected during the
winter in northern gardens.
B. Planting Container Grown Shrubs - Assuming that you have amended the
planting area soils and do not have to be concerned with
heavy clay, dig a hole the same depth as the root mass
height. Check to see if there are any circling roots or a
solid root mass. Take a knife or pruners and cut the roots
down the four sides and make an X cut across the bottom of
the mass. This will allow the roots to spread out and not
continue to circle after being planted.
Place the plant in the soil and be sure that it is not too
deep so that the trunks will not be covered with soil when
you are done. Fill the hole and water it in to remove any
air pockets in the soil. Gently tamp down the soil to form a
firm support for the plant.
C. Planting Bare Root Shrubs - Since there is no soil around the roots of this
type, it is important to get them into the ground as
soon as possible after you purchase them or receive
them in the mail. If you are to be delayed a few
days, put the roots in a pail of water and place
them in a cool location until you can plant them.
Dig a hole about a foot deep and 18 inches
or more wide depending on the size of the plant. Mound some soil into the bottom of the hole. Spread the
root system out and drape it over the sides of the mound.
Add soil to the mound until the base of the stems are at the
surface level of the soil. (Remember the rule about placing
plants at the same level as they were growing at their
previous location.) The, hold the plant in place, fill in the hole and gently firm in the soil. Water the
soil thoroughly so that any air
pockets fill in.
